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[Lewis] 
Thursday May 30th 1805.
 

       The rain which commenced last evening continued with little intermission untill 11 this morning when we set out; the high wind which accompanied the rain rendered it impracticable to procede earlyer.    more rain has now fallen than we have experienced since the 15th of September last.    many circumstances indicate our near approach to a country whos climate differs considerably from that in which we have been for many months.    the air of the open country is asstonishingly dry as well as pure. I found by several experiments that a table spoon full of water exposed to the air in a saucer would avaporate in 36 hours when the murcury did not stand higher than the temperate point at the greatest heat of the day; my inkstand so frequently becoming dry put me on this experiment.  I also observed the well seasoned case of my sextant shrunk considerably and the joints opened. [1] The water of the river still continues to become clearer and notwithstanding the rain which has fallen it is still much clearer than it was a few days past.    this day we proceded with more labour and difficulty than we have yet experienced; in addition to the imbarrasments of the rappid courant, riffles, & rockey point which were as bad if not worse than yesterday, the banks and sides of the bluff were more steep than usual and were now rendered so slippery by the late rain that the men could scarcely walk.    the chord is our only dependance for the courant is too rappid to be resisted with the oar and the river too deep in most places for the pole.    the earth and stone also falling from these immence high bluffs render it dangerous to pass under them.    the wind was also hard and against us.    our chords broke several times today but happily without injury to the vessels.    we had slight showers of rain through the course of the day, the air was could and rendered more disagreeable by the rain.    one of the party ascended the river hills and reported on his return that there was snow intermixed with the rain which fell on the hights; he also informed us that the country was level 〈and untimbered〉 a little back from the river on both sides.    there is now no timber on the hills, an only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, box Alder and willows to be seen along the river.    in the course of the day we passed several old encampment of Indians, from the apparent dates of which we conceived that they were the several encampments of a band of about 100 lodges who were progressing slowly up the river; the most recent appeared to have been evacuated about 5 weeks since.    these we supposed to be the Minetares or black foot Indians who inhabit the country watered by the Suskashawan and who resort to the establishment of Fort de Prarie, no part of the Missouri from the Minetaries to this place furnishes a perminent residence for any nation yet there is no part of it but what exhibits appearances of being occasionally visited by some nation on hunting excurtions. The Minnetares of the Missoury we know extend their excurtions on the S. [NB: south] side as high as the yellowstone river; the Assinniboins still higher on the N. side most probably as high as about Porcupine river and from thence upwards most probably as far as the mountains by the Minetares of Fort de Prarie and the Black Foot Indians who inhabit the S. fork of the Suskashawan. I say the Missouri to the Rocky mountains for I am convinced that it penetrates those mountains for a considerable distance—    Two buffaloe killed this evening  a little above our encampment. [2]

 

        

Courses and Distances May 30th 1805.  [3]

N. 70° W.    ¼ Along the timbered bottom on the Stard. side opposite to a
high clift.
N. 50° W. 2 to a few trees on a Lard. point
N. 60° W.    ¾ to a broken trunk of a tree on a Stard point opposite to a
high black bluff.
N. 70° W.    ¼ On the Stard. side to a few willows.
N. 30° W. 1 ¼ On the Stard. side to the entrance of a run in a bend.  [4]
S. 55° W. 2 ½ to a grove of trees in a bend, on Lard. side at the entrance
of a run,  [5] passing a small Island on the Stard. side at 2 ms.,
above which we encamped on the Stard. side—
Miles
8  




[Clark] 
May 30th Thursday 1805
 

       The rain conmmenced yesterday evining, and continued moderately through the course of the night, more rain has now fallin than we have experienced Since the 15th of September last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill about 11 oClock at which time we Set out, and proceeded on with great labour, we were obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were So muddey & Slipery that the men could Scercely walk not with Standing we proceeded on as well as we could    wind hard from the N W.    in attempting to assend a rapid our toe Cord broke & we turned 〈on〉 without injurey, those rapids or Shoaley points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at the mouth of every drean    Some little rain at times all day    one man assended the high Countrey and it was raining & Snowing on those hills, the day has proved to be raw and Cold. Back from the river is tollerably leavel, no timber of any kind on the hills, and only a fiew Scattering cotton willow & ash near the river, much hard rock; & rich earth, the Small portion of rain which has fallen causes the ric h earth as deep as is wet to Slip into the river or bottoms &c.

 

       we discover in Several places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing up the river—    Those Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Inds. or Menetares who inhabit the heads of the Saskashowin & north of this place and trade a little in the Fort de Prarie establishments.    we Camped in a grove of Cotton trees on the Stard Side, river rise 1½ In.

 

        

Course & Distance May 30th 1805

  mile  
N. 70° W    ¼ along the timbered bottom on the Stard point opsd. a high
Clift
N. 50° W. 2 to a few trees on a Lard point
N. 60° W.    ¾ to a Stump on the Stard. point opposit a high black bluff
N. 70° W. 1 ¼ on the Stard Side to a fiew willows
N. 30° W. 1 ¼ on the Stard Side to the mouth of a run in a bend.
S. 55° W. 2 ½ to a grove of trees in a bend to the Lard Side at the mouth
of a run    passed a Small Island on the Stard. Side at 2 miles
above which we encamped on the Stard Side
miles
8  




[Ordway] 
 

       May 30th Thursday 1805.    the rain commenced yesterday evening & continued moderately through the course of the night.    more rain has now fallen than we have experenced Since the 15th of September last, the rain continued this morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill abt. 11 oClock at which time we Set out & proceeded on with great labour we were oblidged to make use of the tow rope & the banks were So muddy & Slippery that the men could Scarsely walk notwithstanding we proceeded as well as we Could, wind hard from the N. W.    in attempting to assend a rapid our toe cord broke of the white perogue, they turned without injury. those rapids are Shallow points & are numerous & difficult one being at the mouth of every dreen. Some little rain at times all day. one man ascended the high country & it was raining & Snowing on those high hills, the day has proved to be raw and cold    back from the river is tollarably level. no timber of any kind on the hills, & only a fiew Scatering trees of cotton willows &.C.    we discover in many places old encampments of large bands of Indians, a fiew weeks past & appear to be makeing up the River. those Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Indians or Manetare who Inhabit the Country on the heads of the Saskashoarr North of this place & trade a litto [little] in the Fort Deprare establishments.  [6] we Camped in a handsome grove of cotton trees on the Stard. Side. River rise 1½. Came 8 miles to day




[Gass] 
 

       Thursday 30th.    The forenoon was cloudy, with some rain. We did not set out till late in the day. The hills came in close on the river again, but are not so high. Some of them are as black as coal and some white as chalk.  [7] We see a great many fresh Indian tracks or signs as we pass along. It rained a little all day; we went on slow and encamped early on the North side, in a small bottom with some cotton wood, having proceeded on eight miles. There are no pines to be seen on the hills.




[Whitehouse] 
 

       Thursday 30th May 1805.    Cloudy & rain, the wind high from the N. W.    we delayed untill about 10 oC. then Set off, though disagreeable working.    passed white Straight range of Clifts on the S. S.    proceeded on with the towing lines about 5 miles & halted to dine on the N. S.    Some of the hunters Shot an Elk.    cold chilly wind & rain.    passed a Camp wher 29 lodges of the blackfoot Indians had lately been & left piles of mussel Shells at each fire.    Came 8 miles.    Camped at a handsom narrow bottom covered with thin c. wood timber, where 50 or 60 lodges of Indians had lately been Camped.    they were gone as we expect up the river.    they left Several lodge poles & considerable of fire wood gathered.    2 of the hunters went across the river on the hill & killed 2 buffaloe.—

 

       Thursday May 30th    This morning we had the weather Cloudy and Rainey; & the wind blowing hard from the North west, We delayed setting off till 10 oClock A. M. the weather still being very disagreeable, & bad to Tow the Crafts; we then proceeded on our Voyage, and passed a white strait range of Clifts, lying on the South side of the River, we proceed still on, towing our Crafts about 5 Miles, when we halted to dine on the North side of the River; One of our hunters Shot an Elk, which was brought to us.—    the weather still continued Cold & Chilly with some rain,—    We set off about 2 o'Clock P. M. from the place that we dined at; and passed an Old Camp of 20 lodges, which the black foot Indians we supposed had lately left.    they had left, piles of Muscle shells, at each fire, We came 8 Miles, and encamped at a handsome Narrow bottom, thinly covered with Cotton wood; where we found 60 lodges, that some Indians had lately left, and we expected had gone up the River Mesouri, Those Indians left several lodge poles, and a considerable quantity of fire Wood, which they had gather'd; 2 of our hunters went across the River to a hill, where they killed 2 Buffalo, which they brought to our Campe.—




 

1. Lewis is testing the relative humidity of the dry air of the High Plains of Montana (cf. Clark's remark in the weather data of September 23, 1804). Large. (Return to text.)

 

2. In Chouteau County, Montana, a little above Pablo Island and nearly opposite the mouth of Sheep Shed Coulee. Atlas maps 41, 52, 53, 60; MRC map 73. (Return to text.)

 

3. Also given on Atlas map 41, in Clark's hand. (Return to text.)

 

4. Unnamed on Atlas maps 41, 52, 60, and apparently without a modern name. (Return to text.)

 

5. Perhaps Sheep Shed Coulee. (Return to text.)

 

6. Ordway, still copying Clark, mentions the Blackfeet and Atsina Indians, the Saskatchewan River, and the North West Company post of Fort des Prairies where the two tribes traded. (Return to text.)

 

7. The party is entering the White Cliffs area of the Missouri River Breaks, Chouteau County, Montana. (Return to text.)












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