April 27, 1806
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April 27, 1806

 

This morning we were detained untill 9 A. M. in consequence of the absence of one of Charbono's horses.    the horse at length being recovered we set out and [NB: passed above our camp a small river called Youmalolam riv. [1] & to] at the distance of fifteen miles passed through a country similar to that of yesterday; the hills at the extremity of this distance again approach the river and are rocky abrupt and 300 feet high.    we ascended the hill and marched through a high plain for 9 miles when we again returned to the river, [2] I now thought it best to halt as the horses and men were much fatiegued altho had not reached the Wallah wollah village as we had been led to beleive by our guide who informed us that the village was at the place we should next return to the river, and the consideration of our having but little provision had been our inducement to make the march we had made this morning.    we collected some of the dry stalks of weeds and the stems of a shrub which resembles the southern wood; made a small fire and boiled a small quantity of our jerked meat on which we dined; while here the principal Cheif of the Wallahwallahs joined us with six men of his nation.    this Cheif by name Yel-lept' had visited us on the morning of the 19 of October at our encampment a little below this place; we gave him at that time a small medal, and promised him a larger one on our return. [3]    he appeared much gratifyed at seeng us return, invited us to remain at his village three or four days and assured us that we should be furnished with a plenty of such food as they had themselves; and some horses to assist us on our journey.    after our scanty repast we continued our march accompanyed by Yellept and his party to the village which we found at the distance of six miles situated on the N. side of the river at the lower side of the low country about 12 ms. below the entrance of Lewis's river. [4] This Cheif is a man of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring tribes and nations.—    This Village consists of 15 large mat lodges.    at present they seem to subsist principally on a speceis of mullet which weigh from one to three lbs. and roots of various discriptions which these plains furnish them in great abundance.    they also take a few salmon trout of the white kind.—    Yellept haranged his village in our favour intreated them to furnish us with fuel and provision and set the example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood and a platter of 3 roasted mullets. [5]    the others soon followed his example with rispect to fuel and we soon found ourselves in possession of an ample stock.    they birn the stems of the shrubs in the plains there being no timber in their neighbourhood of any discription.    we purchased four dogs of these people on which the party suped heartily having been on short allowance for near two days.    the indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved themselves in every rispect extreemly well. the indians informed us that there was a good road which passed from the columbia opposite to this village to the entrance of the Kooskooske on the S. side of Lewis's river; [6] they also informed us, that there were a plenty of deer and Antelopes on the road, with good water and grass.    we knew that a road in that direction if the country would permit would shorten our rout at least 80 miles.    the indians also informed us that the country was level and the road good, under these circumstances we did not hesitate in pursuing the rout recommended by our guide whos information was corroberated by Yellept & others.    we concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.—

 

This morning we were detained untill 9 A M in consequence of the absence of one of Shabono's horses.    the horse being at length recovered we Set out and to the distance of 15 miles passed through a Country Similar to that of yesterday.    (passed Muscle Shell rapid) [7] and at the experation of this distance again approached the river, and are rocky abrupt and 300 feet high.    we assended the hill and marched through a high plain 10 miles where we again returned to the river.    we halted altho we had not reached the Wal-lah-lal-lah village as we had been led to believe by our guide who informed us that the village was that the place we Should next return to the river, and the considiration of our haveing but little provisions had been our inducement to make the march we had made this morning.    we collected Some of the dry stalks of weeds and the Stems of Shrubs or weeds which resemble the Southern wood; made a Small fire and boiled a Small quantity of our 〈boiled〉 jurked meat on which we dined; while here we were met by the principal Chief of the Wal lah wal lah Nation and Several of his nation.    this chief by name Yel lep-pet had visited us on the morning of the 19th of Octr. at our encampment imedeately opposit to us; we gave him at that time a Small medal, and promised him a large one on our return.    he appeared much gratified at Seeing us return.    he envited us to remain at his village 3 or 4 days and assured us that we Should be furnished with a plenty of Such food as they had themselves, and Some horses to assist us on our journey.    after our Scanty repast we Continued our March accompanied by Yelleppit and his party to the Village which we found at the distance of Six miles, Situated on the North Side of the river.    about 16 miles below the enterance of Lewis's river. This Chief is a man of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the neignbouring tribes and nations.—    the village Consists of 15 large mat Lodges.    at present they Seam to Subsist principally on a Species of Mullet which weighs from one to 3 pds. and roots of various discriptions which those plains furnish them in great abundance. They also 〈furnish〉 take a fiew Salmon trout of the white kind.    Yelleppet haranged his village in our favor intreated them to furnish us with fuel & provisions and Set the example himself by bringing us an armfull of wood, and a platter with 3 rosted mullets.    Soon followed his example with respect to fuel and we Soon found ourselves in possession of an ample Stock, they burn the Stems of the Shrubs in the plains, there being no timber in this neighbourhood of any discription.    we purchased 4 dogs of those people on which the party Suped hartily haveing been on Short allowance for near 2 days.    the Indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved themselves in every respect very well.    the Indians informed us that there was a good road Which passed from the Columbia opposit to this Village to the enterance of Kooskooske on the S. Side of Lewis's river, they also informed us, there were a plenty of Deer and Antilopes on the road with good water and grass.    we knew that a road in that direction if the Country would permit it would Shorten the rout at least 80 miles.    the Indians also inform us that the County was leavel and the road good, under those circumstances we did not hesitate in pursueing the rout recommended by our guide and Corroberated by Yetleppit and others.    we Concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.—    made 31 miles to day—

 

Sunday 27th of April 1806.    a little rain fell the latter part of last night.    we Set out as usal and proceed. on    Soon passd. a Small village of 3 lodges then assended a high plain where we Saw an extensive country around us & not a tree to be Seen    came about 20 miles before we halted & delayed a Short time    eat a little dry meat & let our horses feed a Short time and proceed on about 5 miles further and arived at a large village of the wal-a-wal tribe, at the commencement of a low barron Smooth country where we Camped [8]    bought a fat dog to each mess.    these natives are numerous    their is another village on the opposite Side of the river & a great number of horses.    we get different kinds of roots and fresh Salmon trout & Suckers &C.    all these Savages are glad to See us and appear verry friendly.—

 

Sunday 27th.    The morning was cloudy with some light showers of rain; and about 9 o'clock we proceeded on through the plains, accompanied by a great many of the natives. Some light showers of rain fell at intervals during the day; and after halting about 2 hours we continued our journey to sunset, when we came to a large village of mat-lodges, belonging to a band of the Wal-la-wal-las, who have encamped here on the north side of the river. Here we remained all night, and the natives were good enough to supply us with some faggots of brush, they had gathered in the plains from the sage bushes, [9] which grow in great abundance on some part of these plains and are very large.

1. Unnoticed on the outbound journey, it is the Umatilla River, in Umatilla County, Oregon; "You ma lol am R" on Atlas map 75. It is a Nez Perce term, y ó:matalam, for the Umatilla River. (back)
2. The route, through southeastern Benton County, Washington, does not appear on Atlas map 75. (back)
3. Yelleppit (yelépt, "friend, blood brother" in Nez Perce, and yalɨ́pt, "trading partner" in Shahaptian) is discussed at October 19, 1805. His medal may be the one that is among the Lewis and Clark items at the Oregon Historical Society (see October 19, 1805). (back)
4. This village was in Benton County, opposite and below the mouth of the Walla Walla River, probably south of present Yellepit way station, at a site perhaps now under Lake Wallula. The Indian site was recorded by Drucker, but has not been investigated. Drucker's placement of the village, above high water line, may provide opportunity for future excavation. Drucker (ARMR); Osborne; Shiner (MR). Atlas map 75 indicates that the camp for April 27 was across the river in Walla Walla County, Washington, just above the mouth of the Walla Walla. The journals, however, make it clear that this day's camp was at the village, and that the party crossed the Columbia on April 29. (back)
5. Mullets are suckers, Catostomus sp. (back)
6. The trail that they would take in a few days through southeastern Washington, across Walla Walla, Columbia, Garfield, and Asotin counties, to the mouth of the Clearwater (Kooskooske) at Lewiston, Idaho. The "S. side" apparently refers to the starboard, or east, side of the Snake (Lewis's) River, where the Clearwater comes in. It may have been about this time that Yelleppit gave Lewis information for a map of the country that appears in the captain's Astronomy Notebook (fig. 14). See Appendix C. (back)
7. In the vicinity of present McNary Dam, between Umatilla County, Oregon, and Benton County, Washington. Atlas map 75. (back)
8. A Walula (Walla Walla) village in Benton County, Washington, below and opposite the mouth of the Walla Walla River, south of Yellepit way station and perhaps now under Lake Walula. The party remained with them until April 29, at their insistence. (back)
9. Big sagebrush. (back)