June 1, 1805
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Aug 30, 1803 Sep 30, 1806

June 1, 1805

 

The moring was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set out at an early hour and proceeded as usual by the help of our chords.    the river Clifts and bluffs not so high as yesterday and the country becomes more level.    a mountain or a part of the N. Mountain appears to approach the river within 8 or 10 ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last evening. [1] Capt C. who walked on shore today informed me that the river hills were much lower than usual and that from the tops of those hills he had a delightfull view of rich level and extensive plains on both sides of the river; in those plains, which in many places reach the river clifts, he observed large banks of pure sand which appeared to have been d[r]iven by the S W. winds from the river bluffs and there deposited. [2]    the plains are more fertile at some distance from the river than near the bluffs where the surface of the earth is very generally covered with small smothe pebbles which have the appearance of having been woarn by the agitation of the waters in which they were no doubt once immerced. [3] A range of high Mountains appear to the S. W. at a considerable distance covered with snow, they appear to run Westerly. [4] no timber appears on the highlands; but much more than yesterday on the river and Islands.    rockey points and shoals less freequent than yesterday but some of them quite as bad when they did occur.    the river from 2 to 400 yards wide, courant more gentle and still becoming clearer.    game is by no means as abundant as below; we killed one male bighorn and a mule deer today; saw buffalow at a distance in the plains particularly near a small Lake on Lard. side about 8 ms. distant.    some few drops of rain again fell this evening.    we passed six Islands and encamped on the 7th; [5] they are all small but contain some timber.    the wind has been against us all day.—    I saw the choke cherry the yellow and red courant bushes; the wild rose appears now to be in full bloom as are also the prickley pear which are numerous in these plains.— [6]    We also saw some Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to have been long evacuated.—    some coal appear in the bluffs.

Courses and distances of June 1st 1805. [7]
N. 58° W.   2 ½ to a Point on the Stard. side
N. 45° W.   1 ¼ to a point on the Lard. side
N. 60° W.   1 ¼ to a point on the Stard. side
N. 50° W.   1 ½ to a tree on the Lard. side
N. 25° W.   1 ¼ to a point on the Stard. side
N. 30° W.      ¾ Along the Stard. shore to a point of woodland.
N. 20° W.   1 to a point of timber on the Lard. side opst. to a bluff
N. 48° W.      ¾ to a point of timbered land Stard.
N. 55° W.   1 ½ to a point of timbered land Lard.
N. 60° W.   1 ¾ to the point of a bluff in a bend on Stard. oppst. to a small
Island.
S. 58° W.   1 ½ to a point on the Stard. side
S. 60° W.   1 to the upper point of a small Island on the Std. side pass-
ing a Lard. point at ¾ of a mile.
S. 40° W.      ¾ to a bluff point in a bend on Lard. side
West   1 to the centre of a Stard. bend.
South   2 ½ [8] to a Stard. point opposite to a high bluff
S. 20° W.      ¾ to a bluff on the Stard. side opposite to an Island
N. 65° W.   2 to a small island near a high bluff on Stard., passing two
other Islands; the 1st on Lard. and 2cd near the extremity
of this course. encamped on the 3rd Island at the termi-
neation of this course.—
Miles 23  
 

a Cloudy morning    we Set out at an early hour and proseeded on as usial with the toe rope    The Countrey appears to be lower and the Clifts not So high or Common, a mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N. of this place, I walked on Shore to day found the 〈high〉 Plains much lower than we have Seen them and on the top we behold an extencive plain on both Sides, in this plain I observed maney [X: k]noles of fine Sand which appeared to have blown from the river bluffs and collected at these points [9]    Those plains are fertile    near the river a great no. of Small Stone, I observed at Some distance to the S. W. a high mountain which appears to bear westerly    The Cole appear as usial, more Cotton trees Scattered on the Shores & Islands than yesterday—    no timber on the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current more jentle than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to day— the wild animals not So plenty as below    we only killed a ram & mule Deer to day, we Saw Buffalow at a distance in the plains, particularly near a Lake on the Lard. Side about 8 miles distant from the river—    We passed Six Islands and encamped on the 7th    all those Islands are Small but contain Some timber on them    The river riseing a little    Wind to day from the S. W.    Som fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, flying Clouds all day

Course and Distance June the 1st 1805
  miles  
N. 58° W.   2 ½ to a point on the Stard Side
N. 45° W.   1 ¼ to a point on the Lard. Side
N. 60° W.   1 ¼ to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 50° W   1 ½ to a tree on the Lard. Side
N. 25° W   1 ¼ to a point on the Stard. Side
N. 30° W.      ¾ allong the Stard Shore to a point of woodland
N. 20° W.   1 to a point of timber on the Lard Side opsd. to a bluff on the
Stard. Side.
N. 48° W.      ¾ to a point of timbered land Stard. Side
N. 55° W   1 ½ to a point of timbered land on the Lard Sd.
N. 60° W   1 ¾ to the point of a bluff in a bend on on Stard. opposit to a Small
Island
S. 58° W.   1 ½ to a point on the Stard Side
S. 60° W.   1 to the upper point of a Small Island, on the Stard. Side
passd. Lard. pt. at ¾ of a m.
S. 40° W.      ¾ to a bluff point in a bend to the Lard. Side
West   1 to the Center of a Stard. bend
South   2 ½ to a Stard. point opposit a high bluff
S. 20° W.      ¾ to a Bluff on the Stard Side opsd. an Isd.
N 65° W.   2 to a Small Island near a high bluff on the Stard., passing
two other Islands first on the Lard. & the 2d near the ex-
tremity of the Course and Encamped on the 3rd Island
miles 23  

Saw Several Indian camps made of Sticks & bark Set up on end and do not appear to belong evacuated—    The roses are in full bloome, I observe yellow berries, red berry bushes Great numbers of Wild or choke Cheries, prickley pares are in blossom & in great numbers

 

June 1st Saturday 1805.    a Cloudy morning.    we Set out at an eairly hour and proceeded on as usal with the toe rope.    the Country appears to be lower and the clifts not So high or common.    a Mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8 or 10 miles N. of this place. more cotton trees Scatering along the river & Islands than yesterday. no timber on the high land. The river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current more jentle than yesterday.    but fiew bad rapids points to day.    the wild animels not So pleanty as below    we only killed a ram & mule deer to day. we Saw buffalow at a [d]istance in the plains.    perticelarly near a lake on the Lard. [s]ide about 8 eight miles off from the river.    we passed Six Islands and Camped on the 7th all night. all those Islands are Small but contain Some timber on them. The river riseing a little. wind to day from S. W. Some fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening. flying clouds all day. Saw Several Indians Camps made of Sticks & Set up on end and do not appear to be long evacuated. The roses are in full bloom    we saw yallow berrys, red berry bushes great nombers wild or choke Cherries, prickly prairs are in the blossom    we Saw great nombers of them. Came 23 miles to day.

 

Saturday 1st June, 1805. We embarked early. The morning was cloudy, but without rain. We passed through a more handsome country, than for some days past. It appears more level and there are some good bottoms on both sides of the river, but not large; also a number of beautiful small islands covered with cotton wood. We saw a number of mountain sheep. Yesterday our men killed three of them, that had remarkable large horns; one pair weighed 25 pounds. We passed a small river on the North side about 11 o'clock. [10] The water is not so rapid to day as usual, but continues high. In the afternoon we passed a creek [11] about 30 yards wide, and several small islands. We went 24 miles and encamped on a small island.

 

Saturday 1st June 1805.    a clear pleasant morning    we Set off eairly & proceeded on.    passed Steep clifts of white rocks which had villages of little birds, [12] built along the projecting rocks.    one of the party killed a Mountain ram or Ibex which had fine horns.    we passed handsom bottoms of c. wood & box elder [13] timber on each Side.    Saw old Indian Camps at a bottom on N. S.    passed a Creek [14] on N. S. & Straight bluffs.    passed Several Small Islands.    about one oC. P. M. we passed a beautiful large Island covered with large & Small timber Saw Some Elk on it.    the hills & bluffs are not So high on the river as they have been for Some time.    about 2 oC. we halted to dine and air our goods &c.    the wind rose from the S. E.    the river bears to the South, handsom baron plains back from the river.    we Saw Mountains a Short distance from the river on the N.S. and on the S. S. at a considerable distance up the river.    about 3 oC. we proceeded on    passed a Creek on the N. S.    passed Several Islands covered with timber.    passd. a Straight clift of rocks Steep from the Surface of the water about 100 feet perpinticular.    passd handsom high plains on each Side.    Came 24 miles & Camped on the 7th Isld. a Small Island covered with timber.    had passd. 2 little below

Saturday June 1st    This morning we had Clear & pleasant Weather; we set off early, and proceeded on our Voyage, towing the Crafts as usual, and passed Steep Clifts of white Rock, which had a number of nests of some small birds built, along the projecting Rocks, as we pass'd.—    One of our party, 〈killed〉 who was out hunting, killed a Mountain Sheep or Ibex, which had remarkable fine Horns.—    We proceeded on and passed 〈a〉 some handsome bottoms of land, having Cotton Wood & Box Elder Timber on them, lying on both sides of the River; and saw some old Indian Camps, in a bottom, on the South side of the River, We also passed, a Creek lying on the North side, and Bluffs and several Small Islands.—    About One o'Clock P. M. we passed a beautiful large Island, cover'd with large and small timber, and saw some Elk on it.—    The Hills and bluffs, are not so high along the River, as they have been for several days past.—    About 2 oClock P. M. we halted to dine, and to Air the Goods &ca. which were on board the Crafts, The wind rose here, and blew from the South East, the Course of the Mesouri running to the Southward, here we 〈was〉 saw Some Elk on the hills and Clifts.—

And there lies some handsome barren plains, which lay a small distance back from the River, We saw likewise here Mountains, which lay a short distance from the River, on the North side, and some Mountains, lying on the South side of the River, at a considerable distance up it.    About 3 oClock P. M. we proceeded on our Voyage, and passed a Creek lying on the North side of the River; and some Islands, cover'd with Timber and a Strait Clift of Rocks, lying very steep from the Surface of the Water, they appeared to be 100 feet perpendicular, and some handsome plains, lying a small distance back, from the River on both sides of it.—    We also passed 2 Islands which lay on each side of the River, We encamp'd in the Evening on the end of an Island, which was cover'd with timber, having come 24 Miles this day.—

1. Part of the Bears Paw Mountains. (back)
2. The intensely strong winds that blow from the southwest easily move silt and fine sand from river banks and bars and redeposit them in lee areas. (back)
3. Several extensive deposits of sand and gravel occur here at elevations of as much as one hundred and sixty feet above the river. They were deposited by the Missouri before it entrenched its channel. (back)
4. Probably the Highwood Mountains. (back)
5. In the vicinity of present Boggs Island, in Chouteau County, Montana. Both captains say they camped on an island, as shown on Atlas map 41, but Atlas maps 53 and 61 show the campsite on the starboard shore. MRC map 74. (back)
6. Someone, perhaps Biddle, drew a red vertical line through this sentence. (back)
7. Also given on Atlas map 61, in both captains' hands. (back)
8. On Atlas map 41 the whole number appears to be "3," with "2" written over it; use of the first number may account for the map's incorrect mileage total of 24. (back)
9. Lewis appears to have added the words from "appeared to" to here. He may have added other words above in this entry. (back)
10. The streams Gass mentions today the captains did not deem worthy of notice even in their courses and distances, though the streams appear, nameless, on expedition maps. The first may be Little Sandy Creek, Chouteau County, Montana. (back)
11. An apparently nameless watercourse in Chouteau County. (back)
12. Probably the cliff swallow, Hirundo pyrrhonota, mentioned by Lewis and Clark on May 31. (back)
13. Boxelder, Acer negundo L. (back)
14. The captains do not mention the streams noted by Gass and Whitehouse this day. This one may be Little Sandy Creek, Chouteau County, Montana. (back)