October 19, 1804
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Aug 30, 1803 Sep 30, 1806

October 19, 1804


19th of October Friday 1804.    Set out early under a gentle Breeze from the S.E.    more timber than Common in the bottoms    passed a large Pond on the S. S.    I walked out on the high land L. Side and observed great numbers of Buffalows, I counted in view at one time 52 gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk, besides Deer & goats &c.    all the Streems falling from the hills or high lands So brackish that the water Can't be Drank without effecting the person making use of it as Globesalts—, [1] I saw in my walk Several remarkable high Conocal hills, one 90 feet, one 60 and others Smaller— [2]    the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet Bird [3] live in the hollows of those hills, which holes are made by the water passing from the top & &.    I also Saw an old Village fortified Situated on the top of a high Point, which the Ricarra Chief tels me were Mandans, [4] we Camped on the L. S.    I Killed a Deer & Saw Swans &c.    our hunters Killed 4 Elk and 6 Deer to Day

Course Distance &.
N. 60° W. 2 ½ m. to a pt. on the S. S.    passed a Creek S. S.
N. 40° W. 2 m to Some wood in a bend to the L. S.
N. 10° E. 1 ½ m to a pt on the L S.
N. 20° W. 2 m. to a tree in the bend S. S.
N. 83° W. 3 m to the point S. S.
N. 44° W. 1 m. to a Willow pt. on the L. S. opsd a Lake S. S.
N. 30° W. 2 m. to a tree in bend S. S.
N. 80° W. 3 m. to a pt. on the S. S [5]

a fine morning    wind 〈hard〉 from the S. E.    we Set out early under a gentle Breeze and proceeded on verry well, more timber than Common on the banks on this part of the river—    passed a large Pond on the S. S.—    I walked out on the Hills & observed Great numbers of Buffalow feedeing on both Sides of the river    I counted 52 Gangues of Buffalow & 3 of Elk at one view, all the runs which come from the high hills which is Generally about one or 2 miles from the water is brackish and near the Hills (the Salts are) [6] and the Sides of the Hills & edges of the Streems, the mineral salts appear    I saw Som remarkable round hills forming a Cone at top one about 90 foot one 60 & Several others Smaller, the Indian Chief Say that the Callemet bird live in the holes of those hills, the holes form by the water washing thro Some parts in its passage Down from the top—    near one of those noles, on a point of a hill 90 feet above the lower plane I observed the remains of an old village, [NB: high, strong, watchtower &c.] which had been fortified, the Indian Chief with us tels me, a party of Mandins lived there, Here first saw ruins of Mandan nation    we proceeded on & Camped on the L. S. [7] opposit the upper of those Conocal hills—

our hunters killed 4 Elk 6 Deer & a pelican, I saw Swans in a Pond & Killed a fat Deer in my walk, Saw above 10 wolves. This day is pleasent

19th Octr.

Course Destance & reffurence
N. 60° W.   2 ½ mes. to a pt. on the S. S.    Passed a Creek on the S. S.
N. 40° W.   2 mes. to Some wood in a bend on the L. S.
N. 10° E   1 ½ mile to the point on L. S.
N. 20° W.   2 miles to a tree in the bend S. S.
N. 83° W.   3 miles to the point on the S. S.
N. 44° W   1 mile to a willow point on the L. S.    pd. a Lake S S.
N. 30° W   2 miles to a tree in the bind to the S. S.
N. 80° W.   3 ½ miles to a point on the S. S. (2)    opposit a round nole on
the L. S. a Deep bend to the L. S. & pond
  17 ½  

Friday 19th Oct.    a clear & pleasant morning.    we Set off eairly.    2 men out hunting on S. S.    a gentle breeze from the South    we proceeded on    passed a Timbred bottom on N. S.    2 men went out hunting on N. S. & in a fiew minutes killed an Elk.    we took it on board & proceeded on untill abt. 1 o.C. when we halted for dinner on S. S.    one of the hunters that went out this morning joined us    had killed 2 Elk. Capt. Clark & 2 more hunters went out hunting on S. S. Sailed on. Saw an abundance of droves of Buffaloe on N. S.    passd. a Bottom on N. S. where we took on board 2 of the hunters who had killed 3 deer—    towards evening our hunters all joined us.    had killed 4 more Deer.    the Skins were all Given out to the party &.C.


Friday 19th.    Early this morning we renewed our voyage, having a clear day and a fair wind: passed a creek on the south side. While out hunting yesterday I saw about three hundred goats, and some buffaloe. Deer are not so plenty here as lower down the river; but elk, buffaloe and goats, are very numerous. Four hunters went out to day and in the evening returned with 7 deer and three elk. We encamped on the north side.


Friday October 19th    This morning being clear, we sent our Hunters out, and proceeded on our Voyage with a fair Wind; we passed a Creek, lying on the South side of the River, as we passed along we saw a great quantity of Buffalo, Elk, and deer in gangs, We came too in the Evening, and encamped on the North side of the River, our hunters returned, and brought with them 3 Elk & 7 deer—which they had killed this day

1. Glauber's Salts, the decahydrate form of sodium sulfate, used as a laxative. (back)
2. They appear on Atlas map 28 in Morton County, North Dakota; the highest is probably the "Sugarloaf" of Evans's map 5 (Atlas map 11), present Sugarloaf Butte. MRC map 49; MRY map 133. (back)
3. The golden eagle. (back)
4. The village may be the Eagle Nose site set atop a flat-topped eminence known today as Eagle Nose Butte or Birds Bill Hill, in Morton County. It figures prominently in Mandan folklore. Atlas map 28 calls it a "hunting camp fortifed on a hill." Mattison (OR), 148; Will, 313; Bowers (MSCO), 162, 197 199, 252; MRC map 49. The location of the camp is discussed in n. 7. (back)
5. The location of the camp is discussed in n. 7. The distance is 3 ½ in Codex C. (back)
6. We have changed Clark's square brackets around this passage to parentheses. (back)
7. The letters are uncertain in Codex C, but are clearly "L. S." in the Field Notes. Atlas map 28 seems to indicate a campsite a little above the upper hill; aside from possible error by the map copyist, Clark's use of the word "opposite" is not always precise. The camp would be in Morton County, a few miles upstream from the village of Huff; it is now inundated by Oahe Reservoir. MRC map 49. (back)