February 14, 1806
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February 14, 1806

 

We are very uneasy with rispect to our sick men [1] at the salt works. Sergt. Pryor and party have not yet returned nor can we conceive what causes their delay. Drewyer visited his traps today and caught a very fine fat beaver on which we feasted this evening.    on the 11th inst. Capt Clark completed a map of the country through which we have been passing from Fort Mandan to this place. [2]    in this map the Missouri Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia, Kooskooske [3] and Columbia from the entrance of the S. E. fork to the pacific Ocean as well as a part of 〈Flathead〉 [WC?: Clarks ] river [4] and our tract across the Rocky Mountains are laid down by celestial observation and survey.    the rivers are also connected at their sources with other rivers agreeably to the information of the natives and the most probable conjecture arrising from their capacities and the relative positions of their rispective entrances which last have with but few exceptions been established by celestial observation. we now discover that we have found the most practicable and navigable passage across the Continent of North America; it is that which we traveled with the exception of that part of our rout from the neighbourhood of the entrance of Dearborn's River untill we arrived on 〈the Flat head〉 [WC?: Clarks ] Clarks river at the entrance of Traveler's rest creek; [5] the distance between those two points would be traveled more advantageously by land as the navigation of the Missouri above the river Dearborn is laborious and 420 miles distant by which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are compelled to travel by land from the source of Jefferson's river to the entrance of Travelers rest Creek is 220 miles being further by 500 miles than that from the entrance of Dearborn's river to the last mentioned point and a much worse rout if Indian information is to be relyed on; from the same information the Flathead river like that of the S. E. fork of the Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and Maddison's Rivers can not be navigated through the Rocky Mountains in consequence of falls & rappids and as a confermation of this fact, we discovered that there were no salmon in the Flathead river, which is the case in the S. E. branch of the Columbia although it is not navigable.    added to this, the Indians further inform us, that the Flathead river runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a great distance to the North before it discharges itself into the Columbia river, which last from the same information from the entrance of the S. E. fork to that of 〈Flathead〉 [WC?: Clarks ] river is obstructed with a great number of difficult and dangerous rappids.    considering therefore the danger and difficulties attending the navigation of the Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and distant rout formed by itself and the 〈Flathead〉 [WC?: Clarks ] river we conceive that even admitting the 〈Flathead〉 [WC?: Clarks ] river contrary to information to be as navigable as the Columbia river below it's entrance, that the tract by land over the Rocky Mountains usually traveled by the natives from the Entrance of Traveller's-rest Creek to the forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the same being a distance of 184 Miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from those premices are that the best and most Practicable rout across the Continent is by way of the Missouri [NB: falls of Missouri ] to the entrance of Dearborn's river or near that place; from thence to 〈flathead〉 [NB: Clarks ] river [NB: by land to] at the entrance of Traveller's rest Creek, from thence up Traveller's rest creek to the forks, from whence you pursue a range of mounttains which divides the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from thence to decend this river by water to the S. E. branch of the Columbia, thence down that river to the Columbia and with the latter to the Pacific Ocean.—

 

We are very uneasy with respect to our Sick men at the Salt works. Serjt. Pryor and party haveing not yet returneded, nor can we conceive what can be the Cause of their delay. Drewyer visited his traps & to day and Cought a fine fat beaver on which we feasted this evening and thought it a great delecessey.—.

I compleated a map of the Countrey through which we have been passing from the Mississippi at the Mouth of Missouri to this place. In the Map the Missouri Jefferson's river the S. E. branch of the Columbia or Lewis's river, Koos-koos-ke and Columbia from the enterance of the S. E fork to the pacific Ocian, as well as a part of Clark's [6] river and our track across the Rocky Mountains are laid down by celestial observations and Survey.    the rivers are also conected at their Sources with other rivers agreeably to the information of the nativs and the most probable conjecture arrising from their capacities and the relative positions of their respective enterances which last have with but fiew exceptions been established by celestial observations. We now discover that we have found the most practicable and navigable passage across the Continent of North America; it is that which we have traveled with the exception of that part of our rout from the foot of the Falls of the Missouri, or in neighbourhood of the enterance of the Rocky Mountains untill we arive on Clarks river at the enterence of Travelers-rest Creek; the distance between those two points would be traveled more advantagiously by land as the navigation of the Missouri above the Falls is crooked laborious and 521 miles distant by which no advantage is gained as the rout which we are compelled to travel by land from the Source of Jeffersons River to the enterance of Travellers rest Creek is 220 miles being further by abt. 600 miles than that from the Falls of the Missourie to the last mentioned point (Travellers rest Creek) and a much worse rout if indian information is to be relied on which is from the So so nee or Snake Indians, and the Flatheads of the Columbia west of the rocky mountains.    from the Same information Clarks river like that of the S. E. branch of the Columbia which heads with Jefferson's and Maddisons river's can not be navagated thro' the rocky mountains in consequence of falls and rapids, and as a confirmation of the fact we discovered that there were no Salmon in Clark's river, which is not the Case in the S. E. branch of the Columbia altho it is not navagable.    added to this, the Indians of different quartes further inform us, that Clark's river runs in the direction of the Rocky Mountains for a great distance to the north before it discharges itself into the Columbia river—.    from the Same information the Columbia from the enterance of the S. E. branch to the enterance of Clark's river is obstructed with a great number of dificuelt and dangerous rapids (and the place Clark's river comes out of the Rocky mountains is a tremendious falls &c which there is no possibillity of passing the mountains either by land or water.) Considering therefore the dangers and deficuelties attending the navigation of the Columbia in this part, as well as the circuitous and distant rout formed by itself and that of Clark's River we Conceive that even admitting that Clarks river contrary to information to be as navagable as the Columbia below it's enterance, that the tract by land over the Rocky Mountains usially traveled by the nativs from the enterance of Travellers rest Creek to the Forks of the Kooskooske is preferable; the Same being a distance of 184 miles. The inferrence therefore deduced from these premises are, that the best and most practicable rout across the Continent is by way of the Missouri to the Great Falls; thence to Clarks river at the enterance of Travellers rest Creek, from thence up travillers rest Creek to the forks, from whence you prosue a range of mountains which divides the waters of the two forks of this Creek, and which still Continues it's westwardly Course on the mountains which divides the waters of the two forks of the Kooskooske river to their junction; from thence to decend this river to the S. E. branch of the Columbia, thence down that river to the Columbia, and down the Latter to the Pacific Ocian—. There is a large river which falls into the Columbia on its South Side at what point we could not lern; [7] which passes thro those extencive Columbian Plains from the South East, and as the Indians inform us head in the mountains South of the head of Jeffersons River and at no great distance [WC: Multnomah ] from the Spanish Settlements, and that that fork which heads with the River Rajhone and waters of the Missouri passes through those extensive plains in which there is no wood, and the river Crowded with rapids & falls many of which are impassable.    the other or westerly fork passes near a range of mountains and is the fork which great numbers of Indian Bands of the So sone or Snake Indians, this fork most probably heads with North River or the waters of Callifornia. This River may afford a practicable land Communication with New Mexico by means of its western fork. This river cannot be navagable as an unpracticable rapid is within one mile of its enterance into the Columbia, and we are fully purswaded that a rout by this river if practicable at all, would lengthen the distance greatly and incounter the Same dificuelties in passing the Rocky Mountains with the rout by way of Travellers rest Creek & Clarks river.

 

Friday 14th Feby. 1806.    the morning warm and Showers of rain through the course of this day.—

 

Friday Febry 14th    This morning was warm, & we had showers of rain during the whole of this day.—    The Men at the fort were employed in repairing the Carpenters Tools, making Moccasins & dressing Elk & Deer Skins.—

1. Gibson and Bratton; see above, February 11, 1806. (back)
2. Note the discrepancy between Lewis's description of this map and Clark's description, below. No single map that exactly matches the description has been found, but it was very likely a source for Atlas map 123, or that map itself. (back)
3. The "S. E. branch" is the Salmon and the Snake below the confluence with the Salmon; the captains' "Lewis's River." The Kooskooske is the Clearwater. (back)
4. The combination of the Bitterroot and Clark Fork rivers. Atlas map 125. (back)
5. Lolo Creek, Missoula County, Montana. Atlas map 69. (back)
6. Each "Clark's" in this entry appears to have been written in later over some erasing, after the name was decided upon. Again the Bitterroot-Clark Fork combination. See the Introduction to the Atlas. (back)
7. Here Lewis and Clark apparently combined Indian information about the Willamette and the Snake with deductions of their own. When they discovered the Willamette on their return journey, they assumed that the "Multnomah," as they called it, was the great river coming from the southeast. They believed that this river began near the headwaters of the Missouri and the Yellowstone, which is in fact the case with the Snake. Their notion that the Rio Grande (North River, or Rio del Norte) and the "waters of California" (the Colorado River?) also rose in this same general area (which is true of the Green River, the principal tributary of the Colorado) meant that they still clung to the conception of a height of land which gave rise to all the great rivers of the West. They still did not fully appreciate the extent of territory involved, nor could they know of the existence of the Great Basin. Allen (PG), 327–28; Atlas map 125. (back)