October 14, 1805
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Aug 30, 1803 Sep 30, 1806

October 14, 1805


a verry Cool morning wind from the West    Set out at 8 oClock    proceeded on

West   2 ½ miles to a Stard. bend    Swift water opsd. a rock on Ld.
pt. like a Ship
S. 10° W.   2 ½ miles to a Lard. bend    passed a rapid 〈and Small Island
in Std. Side〉
S. W   3 miles to a Stard. bend    passed a rapid and Small Island
on the Stard Side
S. 10° E.   2 ½ miles to a Lard. bend    psd. small Isd. S.
S. 70° W.   1 ½ miles to a Starboard bend, wind Cold & from the S. W.—
South 18° W.   3     miles to a 〈Stard. bend    passed〉 Lard. bend    passed a
long bad rapid on which 3 Canoes Struck with 2 rocky
Islands in it off the Lard. Point    at 3 miles, a cave in
which the Indians have lived below on the Stard. Side
near which is a grave yard    above the 〈passed on〉 〈an〉
Island and bad rapid 〈opsd.〉 on both Sides 〈at〉 [blank]
〈miles〉 [2]
ms. 15  

Indian Locales on Columbia River and Affluents,
ca. October 14, 1805, Elkskin-bound Journal
Missouri Historical Society

at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned the men got out on a rock    the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She Sunk    the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated    all that Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c. &c. and every article wet    of which we have great Cause to lament as all our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which was in the canoe was tied down, otherwise they must have been lost as the canoe turned over    we got off the men from the rock    toed our canoe on Shore after takeing out all the Stores &c. we Could & put them out to dry on the Island on which we found Some wood which was covered with Stones, this is the Parts of an Indian house, which we used for fire wood, by the wish of our two Chiefs—    Those Chees, one of them was in the Canoe, Swam in & Saved Some property, The Inds. have buried fish on this Isld. which we are Cautious not to touch.    our Small Canoe & three Indians in another was out of Sight at the time our missfortune hapined, and did not join us.    wind hard S W.


a Verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool untill about 12 oClock When it Shifted to the S. W.    at 2 ½ miles passed a remarkable rock verry large and resembling the hill [hull] of a Ship [3] Situated on a Lard point at Some distance from the assending Countrey    passed rapids at 6 and 9 miles.    at 12 miles we Came too at the head of a rapid which the Indians told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad    in decending three Stern Canoes Stuk fast for Some time on the head of the rapid and one Struk a rock in the worst part, fortunately all landed Safe below the rapid which was nearly 3 miles in length.    here we dined, and for the first time for three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing Teel, [4] after dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before our Stern Canoe in passing thro a Short rapid opposit the head of an Island, run on a Smoth rock and turned broad Side, the men got out on the [rock] all except one of our Indian Chiefs who Swam on Shore, The Canoe filed and Sunk    a number of articles floated out, Such as the mens bedding clothes & Skins, the Lodge &c. &c. the greater part of which were cought by 2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd was unloading & Steming the Swift Current to the relief of the men on the rock who could with much dificuelty hold the Canoe.    however in about an hour we got the men an Canoe to Shore with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaws Shot pouches Skins Clothes &c. &c.    all wet    we had every articles exposed to the Sun to dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is verry Considerable all our roots was in the Canoe that Sunk, and Cannot be dried Sufficint to Save, our loose powder was also in the Canoe and is all wett This I think 〈may〉, we Shall saved.—    In this Island [5] we found some Spilt [Split] timber the parts of a house which the Indians had verry Securely covered with Stone, we also observed a place where the Indians had buried there fish, we have made it a point at all times not to take any thing belonging to the Indians even their wood.    but at this time we are Compelled to violate that rule and take a part of the Split timber we find here bured for fire wood, as no other is to be found in any direction. our Small canoe which was a head returned at night with 2 ores which they found floating below. The wind this after noon from the S. W. as usial and hard


Monday 14th Oct. 1805.    a clear cold morning.    the wind high N W.    we Set out as usal and proceeded on    the current rapid.    about noon we came to a bad rockey rapid where 2 canoes ran fast on a rock but we got off without Injury.    a Small Island on the Lard. Side of the rapids    we halted jist below to dine.    then proceeded on about 8 miles then came to another bad rapid at the head of an Island.    the canoe I had charge of ran fast on a rock in the middle of the river and turned across the rock.    we attempeted to git hir off but the waves dashed over hir So that She filled with water.    we held hir untill one of the other canoes was unloaded and came to our assistance    considerable of the baggage washed overboard, but the most of it was taken up below when the canoe got lightned    She went of[f] of a sudden & left myself and three more Standing on the rock half leg deep in the rapid water untill a canoe came to our assistance.    we got the most of the baggage to Shore    two mens bedding lost one tommahawk, and some other Small articles a Small copper kittle &C.    we Camped [6] on an Island Stard. Side at an old fishery where the natives had dryed Sammon burryed their wood covred over it.    we took Some for our use &C.    one of the men killed 8 ducks    the country continues barron and broken in places &C—


Monday 14th.    We embarked early in a fine clear cool morning; passed some rapids; and at 11 came to one very bad, but we got over without injury. We saw some geese and ducks this forenoon and killed some of the ducks. About 1 o'clock a canoe hit a rock, and part of her sunk, and a number of the things floated out. With the assistance of the other canoes all the men got safe to shore; but the baggage was wet, and some articles were lost. We halted on an island to dry the baggage, having come 14 miles.


Saturday〉 Monday 14th Oct. 1805.    a clear cold morning the wind high a head & west.    we took an eairly breakfast and Set out and proceeded on.    as usal the current mostly rapid about noon we went down a verry bad rockey rapid the worst we have passd in this River.    three of the canoes ran fast on a Solid rock at the head of the rapids two on at a time and was in great dangr. of being lost.    one Struck a rock in the middle of the rapids and luckily escaped being Stove.    as luck would have it we all got Safe down.    a Small Island near the Lard. Side, in the rapids we halted a little below to dine.    two Indians are rideing down the River, and have to ride verry fast to keep up with us.    we proceeded on verry well about 8 miles    then came to a rockey rapid at the head of an Island in which one of the canoes under charge of Sergt. ordway ran fast on a Solid rock and Swung across the rock.    they got out on the rock and attempted to Shove the canoe off the rock, but could not Start hir for Some time.    the waves dashed over hir bow So that when we got hir loose from the rock She filled full of water and considerable of the baggage and bedding washed out.    one of the canoes below unloaded and 〈came〉 went to their assistance.    took out Some of the loading.    the canoe then broke away from them and left 4 men Standing on the rock.    the water half leg deep over the Smooth rock & rappid.    a canoe Shortly went and took them off the rock, and got all to Shore except a Small brass kittle & bowl, 2 mens robes & blankets 2 Spoons, one bag of root bread one Shot pouch & powder horn a dressed Elk Skin and Some other Small articles.    we Camped below the rapids on Sd. Island and put out all the wet baggage to dry.    we found Some wood on the Island covered up with Stones where the natives burryed Sammon everry Spring.    wood was So Scarse that we made use of that which was covred So carefully with Stone.    we came [blank] miles this day.    the country continues barron.    Some places broken, other places high Smooth plains &c.    Some or one of the men killed 7 or 8 ducks to day

Monday October 14th    A Clear cold morning, the Wind blowing hard from the Westward, We took an early breakfast and proceeded on our Voyage as usual, We found the current to run mostly rapid.    About noon we went down a very bad Rockey rapid, it being the worst rapid that we had passed in this River.    Three of our canoes ran a solid rock & stuck fast.    This was at the head of a rapid.    Two of these canoes were fast at the same time, and had nearly been lost.    the other Canoe struck the same rock, & got fast in the middle of the fall, however with great exertion our Men got them afloat again & brought them safe over these falls, & got 〈brought〉 them safe down to a small Island lying near the South side of the River, which Island lay still in the rapids.    We continued on a small distance below this Island, where we halted to dine.—    We have since we set out this morning, constantly saw two Indians riding down along the bank of the River, who had to ride fast to keep up with us.—    We left this Island at 1 o'Clock P. M. and proceed on down the River about 8 Miles very well, We then came to a Rockey rapid, which lay at the head of an Island, in passing through this rapid, one of our Canoes, that was in the charge of Serjeant Ordway ran fast on a solid rock, and swung across it.    The Men that was on board this canoe all got out of her into the water on the rock, & attempted to shove her off, but could not for some time start her.    The Water all this while dashed over the bow of this Canoe, & when they got her loose she filled with water & a considerable quantity of baggage & bedding washed out.    One of our Canoes that was a small distance below where this accident happened, unloaded and went to their assistance; and took out some of the loading.—    The Canoe that was on the rock then broke away from the Men, & left 4 Men standing on the Rock in the Water half leg deep over the smooth rocks & rapids.    One of our Canoes went in a short time to their assistance & took these Men from off the Rock on board of it.    We saved some part of that Canoes loading & lost a small brass kettle, Buffalo robes, blanketts, Spoons shot pouches & powder horns, dressed Elk Skins, a bag of Root bread &ca.    We encamped on an Island lying below the Rapids & put out all the wet baggage to dry.    We found on the Island, some Wood that was covered up with Stones, which the Natives had buried.    The Natives come to this place to fish in the Spring of the Year.    We made use of the Wood that we had found, to dress our Victuals with.    We came about 25 Miles this day,    The land continues to be a Barren & in many places broken & high smooth plains.—    In the Evening one of our Men killed 8 Ducks which he got.    our Course still continues West.—

1. Under this entry in the Elkskin-bound Journal is a sketch map (fig. 12) showing a stylized view of the Columbia drainage system and Indian locales. (back)
2. In the margin here, at right angles to the rest of the writing, is the phrase "killed 8 ducks, good dinner." (back)
3. "Ship rock" on Atlas map 74. Now Monumental Rock, in Walla Walla County, Washington, northeast of Magallon. (back)
4. Blue-winged teal, Anas discors [AOU, 140]. (back)
5. The island was thought to have been at former Pine Tree Rapids, between Franklin and Walla Walla counties, Washington according to Coues (HLC), 2:631–32 n. 10. That area is just downstream from Burr Canyon and is now covered by the waters of Lake Sacajawea. Pine Tree Rapids was probably an earlier rapids that the party passed. It may have been Clark's "bad rapid on which 3 Canoes Stuck" (October 14, 1805). The "island and bad rapid" is probably in the area of Rescue Island Rapids. The camp was also apparently in this area in Franklin County. Atlas map 74 shows "Indian Caves" in the cliffs of the northwest shore of the Snake River and a "Tomb." The most conspicuous caves in this general area are the Windust Caves, but they are some miles upstream from where the camp seems to have been. Clark may have misplaced the caves, found other than the Windust Caves, or the locating of the camp may be in error. In any case, archaeological excavations of these series of nine caves at Windust have proved extremely significant in studies of prehistoric cultural history and paleoenvironments of the area. Rice (CSWC); Thompson (WC). (back)
6. On an island now inundated by Lake Sacajawea. The area is downstream from Burr Canyon, Franklin County, Washington. (back)